After rather a big day Tuesday, we were not at all sure about our plans for Wednesday.
 |
| The Ben was still very much present in our thoughts - and our legs! |
I found I was moving a bit easier (though still very sore) when I awoke, but poor Tanker was in very bad shape - his left leg was nearly useless and very painful. Nonetheless, we rose early and had breakfast before pulling Mindy's roof down and getting on the road. We drove an hour out to Arisaig, with quite a bit of trepidation: it wasn't just that we were both feeling tired and banged up, it was also that it was very windy. We drove past Loch Nan Uamh (which is one of those peculiar Scottish lakes that's actually open to the Atlantic Ocean), and things looked a bit...tetchy.
 |
| Definitely not inviting |
Nonetheless, we pushed on to the Arisaig Hotel, where we were set to meet Rockhopper Sea Kayaking for an excursion out to the skerries - small, rocky, tidal islands that mostly disappear beneath the sea at high tide. They're home to a great deal of life such as seals and various birds, so we were quite keen to see them if we could.
 |
| Looking out at Arisaig Sound |
We arrived at the hotel by about 8:35am, but it wasn't until a few minutes after 9 that Rockhopper's van showed up with a trailer full of kayaks in tow. Guides Matt and Brian hopped out and introduced themselves, and we met another lady who was scheduled to depart with us, but the guides asked for a few minutes to assess conditions. After some conferring and checking of forecasts in the van, they came back with bad news: while it would have been possible to head out, it wouldn't be much fun, and we'd quickly have run out of safe places to go as the open ocean was simply not a place to be in a small watercraft that day, particularly as winds were predicted to rise again toward lunch. They advised they'd been in touch with the office, and they would try to help us re-schedule for a half-day excursion that Friday, and refund the £60 difference between the full- and half-day fee (£60 per person for half-day vs £90pp for full-day). We were a bit disappointed - as were the guides, who I'm sure only get paid if they actually go out! - but it was the correct call, and definitely a sign that we'd booked with a solid company. It was also probably for the best that we had a day for our legs to recover from the Ben and another for our arms and shoulders to recover from ice climbing!
 |
| The skerries would wait for us |
We thanked Matt and Brian, who were both very friendly and personable lads, and then we all got on our way back toward Fort William (where Rockhopper's base of operations is located, and through which we'd have to drive to get back to Glen Nevis). East now on A87, we pulled off at Glenfinnan to have a look, but couldn't really see what the fuss was about - the teeming car park for the viaduct view meant that Tank just stopped to let me hop out and take a photo, but it wasn't even a great view.
 |
| Mostly hidden by trees |
There wasn't much information on site and we had little context at the time of the place's importance, so I just hopped back in the van and we drove on. We did catch a view of the monument out the window as we rolled past, but did not walk out to it or climb the spiral staircase leading to the tiny hatch at the top.
We wanted a bit of a restock of groceries, so we stopped in Fort William on our way through, and during our approach I saw a pin on google maps for the West Highland Museum in Cameron Square. It turns out we'd walked right past it two days beforehand, and since the reviews of the place all raved about how it packed an incredible amount of history into a tiny space, I suggested to Tank that we check it out.
 |
| Of note: museums in Scotland are all free entry, with payment on a donation basis only. This makes them accessible to everyone, which is an idea I think should be adopted everywhere! |
The reviews turned out to be spot on - at a modest 8 rooms, with the whole place the size of a townhouse, it's remarkable the depth and breadth of their collections and information. Each room has a theme:
Room 1: Commando Exhibition & Film
 |
| The origin of the UK's Special Forces in WWII is in Lochaber - the area encompassing Fort William and a large part of the West Highlands and Great Glen |
This
 |
| The Commando unit was in the thick of the action on D-Day |
What was not an advertised part of the museum's collection related greatly to the next room: while looking through the Commando history, we heard a young father speaking to his wee daughter in Gaelic. I'd honestly never heard it spoken as an everyday language before, but until quite recently it was the dominant language in the Fort William area, and all of the road signage we saw in the West Highlands listed the Gaelic names of places before the English names.
Perfect segue to the next theme..
Room 2: Local History
 |
| Timeline and standard |
 |
Lochaber Axes
"Such weapons were used at the Battle of Inverlochy on Sunday 2nd February 1645" |
Room 3: Natural History, Geology & Ben Nevis Film
 |
| A large collection of fossils and taxidermy, including this impressive golden eagle |
 |
| Ballachulish slate provided roofs for Victorian Glasgow and Edinburgh, as well at the museum itself |
Room 4: Archaeology and Mountaineering
 |
| Mountaineering and rescue equipment, including the evolution of the ice axe |
 |
| It is mindblowing to think that all mountain rescue operations are conducted solely by volunteers! |
Up a set of stairs - much to our sore legs' dismay! - and past an incredible artefact tucked away beside the staircase:
 |
| A leather gun |
 |
| ..from the mid-17th century! |
 |
| All aspects of Victorian life |
A hallway connects to Room 6: The Jacobites
 |
| Large-format timeline on the corridor wall |
 |
Raising of the Standard at Glenfinnan
Context for our brief and un-illuminating stop-off! |
Room 7:
Highland LifeThis was filled with everyday household items of the past centuries.
 |
| Beautiful Highland harps |
 |
| Tools and objects of daily use |
There was also one wall dedicated to information about Ben Nevis and the meteorological observatory that was established there as the result of one young man's impressive efforts.
 |
| Clement Wragge climbed Ben Nevis every Monday to Friday from June 1st to October 13th, 1881 to make weather observations, ascending early enough that the first summit readings could be taken by 9am. His records would lead to the establishment of the observatory on the summit, which would maintain hourly readings for 21 years from 1883 to 1904. |
 |
| With legs still sore from our summit push the day before, this felt like a slap in the face |
The latter bit - including the film made about the journey - was actually in the final room.
 |
| The West Highland economy benefitted greatly from aluminum production |
 |
| A huge collection of forces medals - the military has such a long history in Fort William that its Gaelic name is "An Gearasdan" - The Garrison - and its earliest recorded settlement was a Cromwellian wooden fort built in 1654 |
 |
The museum is also home to the 2-handed broadsword used by Mel Gibson in the film Braveheart, which was shot in Glen Nevis
Amusing fact: the name "Claymore" comes from the Gaelic claidheamh mòr, which literally translates to "big sword" |
There's loads more to see in the museum that I haven't covered here, so if you're in Fort William it's well worth an hour to go explore - we stopped in the gift shop on the way out and I picked up a book of Scottish myths & legends that I've quite enjoyed reading since we got home, and all proceeds go toward funding the museum's upkeep. We did make a donation as well, and would encourage anyone who's able to do the same!
Oh, and Rockhopper had texted me while we wandered around the museum: they offered us a 1pm departure for a half-day excursion on Friday, which sounded perfect - we were booked at Glen Nevis Caravan Park through Thursday evening, but would have to vacate by 11am on Friday morning, giving us plenty of time for the drive out to Arisaig. They confirmed everything, including our refund, and we were all set!
A quick stop off at the Tesco Express got us the bit of grocery top-up we needed, then we hopped back in Mindy to head toward Glen Nevis. Before heading to the caravan park we hit up the Visitor Centre to pick up some Ben Nevis swag (we got a sticker, a pin badge for Tank, a tubular gaiter for me, and maps of both the Mountain Track and some other walks in the area), and checked out the awesome lego model they have of the Iron Age hill fortress Dun Deardail
 |
| The fortress itself is a few miles away along the West Highland Way |
Back to the van and parked up at our pitch, we each had a snack - our breakfast had been at 7:10am, and it was now past 2pm - then I got into running kit as I'd read about an easy trail in one of the maps I'd picked up, and was thinking of going for a trot. First, though, I had managed to convince Tank to do an easy walk from the Lower Falls out to Paddy's Bridge, which I mistakenly thought might be another name for the Nevis rope bridge.
We drove down the very narrow road from the caravan park to the Lower Falls car park, declining to continue down the singletrack road beyond it..
 |
| The Ben loomed high above us to the east of the road |
I also completely changed my run plan: I'd been thinking about running back to the caravan park, but after seeing how narrow and winding the road down was, neither Tank nor I was happy about the idea of me playing in traffic. I decided I'd come up with some other plan later: for now, it was only a few metres' walk to the Lower Falls as they passed below the bridge leading to the singletrack road.
 |
| The falls were beautiful! |
As we stood watching, a family - mum, dad, and eldest son - all jumped off the bridge into the falls in wetsuits!
 |
| Canyoning is new-ish to Scotland, but seems quite popular! |
Back across the bridge, we found the gate to the Riverside Path
 |
| In both Gaelic and English, just like the road signs |
We set out to walk an "easy" (according to the map, which I failed to bring with us) 3.2km round trip with a 1L Nalgene of water each, me in running kit with an insulated vest to keep me warm in the blustery wind, and Tank in trousers and long sleeves with a fleece sweater that quickly got stuffed in my bag.
 |
| It certainly seemed like we were plenty prepared for a couple of miles of this |
Wandering along the river, we found a couple of places where you could scramble around on the rocks
 |
| It felt very like the Georgian Bay pink granite |
 |
| There were some stunning views |
Meandering along, the trail got a bit more...Scottish.
 |
| I.e.: uphill and rocky |
The scenery was lovely, though, so we pushed on despite our protesting legs.
 |
| It was a gorgeous day, if only the wind weren't quite so biting |
We soon reached Paddy's Bridge, which was definitely not the Nevis Rope Bridge.
 |
| Notable absence of rope |
There was a group doing a guided canyoning tour there, having just scrambled up to the bridge and preparing to jump into the water below.
 |
| This is upstream, where they'd come from |
 |
| Looking downstream past the bridge |
The other side of Paddy's Bridge spat us out on the singletrack road, and I could see by pulling up google maps that the bottom of the Ben Nevis waterfall was just down a ways. I convinced Tank to walk down the road with me til we found it.
 |
Which turned out to be not as impressive as we'd hoped, as water levels were quite low.
I can only imagine the torrent when the spring snowmelt comes rushing down! |
We walked the road to its end, as I was now set on trying to make it out to the rope bridge and Steall Falls. The car park at the end of the road led to
another trailhead.
 |
| Information about Steall Gorge and Waterfall, once again in Gaelic and English |
The map, however, did a very poor job of communicating how much further we'd have to push on.
 |
| We are here, but where the heck is Steall Waterfall? |
 |
| Welp, only one way to find out.. |
I had taken the photos, but not actually read the signage at the trailhead...that talks about how the trail gets "uneven, rocky, and slippery with a steep drop on one side".
I could hear rushing water close at hand, though, and the views along the way were jaw dropping.
 |
| I promised Tank that Steall Falls would be worth it, as I'd seen photos...but this was enough to keep me moving! |
 |
| About that steep dropoff.. |
 |
| Wild water-carved rock formations along the river below the trail |
After about a kilometer - which took us forever with our stiff, painful legs - the trail flattened out and turned to gravel with rocky dikes, as we reached the open gorge.
 |
| ..and caught our first glimpse of the waterfall. |
The floor of the gorge is an open, grassy plain bordered by dramatic peaks, with the wind howling down through it.
 |
| A shoulder of rock obscures the falls as you approach |
A few more minutes of walking - and a rather boggy field crossing - bring you to a much better view of the waterfall.
 |
| Though it's still a way off |
We also finally found the Nevis rope bridge.
 |
| More accurately "aircraft cable bridge", but that doesn't scan as nicely |
I had just about decided to give it a miss as there was a lineup of people waiting to cross, and then gave my head a damn shake - when did I think I'd have another chance? I knew I'd kick myself if I didn't do it, and it's not like I haven't crossed similar bridges before (though admittedly usually while
harnessed and
clipped in), so off we went.
 |
| Maximum two people on the bridge at once - waiting our turn |
 |
| Tank went first |
The young fellow in front of him said "this is terrifying", so Tank started jumping up and down on the bridge! I couldn't believe he'd be such a jerk - way to destroy the Canadian reputation for politeness!
 |
| It got more wobbly as you approached the far side, with the wind absolutely howling down the river |
The two gents behind us - both wearing the same black company-branded t-shirts - asked if there was a way to get to the foot of the falls. I told him we'd no idea, but we all started wandering in that direction to find out.
 |
| Encountering one of these massive black slugs along the way - we'd seen others on the Ben the day before, black as ink and big as your pointer finger! |
 |
| It was definitely possible to get closer |
We weren't keen to do much scrambling at the foot of the falls, so now we looked to get back across the river - particularly as our Nalgenes were getting a bit on the empty side. I suppose we could have filled them up in the waterfall, but...well...there are sheep
everywhere and I'm pretty sure they don't bother with
Leave No Trace principles.
The traffic on the rope bridge was mostly one-way, and it's not like you could pass someone safely, so we sort of shrugged and just walked through the water to get back.
 |
| It was no more than calf deep - wool socks for the win! |
 |
| Splashy splashy |
Then we just had to walk all the way back, this time with wet shoes.
 |
Over stuff like this
(Note the trail marker at bottom left indicating that yes, you do in fact have to clamber over that) |
Now at nearly 7km of our "3.2km" hike, I formulated a plan - if there was anyone looking like they were leaving from the car park at the trailhead, we'd see if we could hitch a lift to save us walking all the way back to the Lower Falls car park. Fortunately, we arrived around the same time the two blokes in the company-branded shirts were hopping into a big panel van (which actually seemed to be a VW T6, just like Mindy except not camper-converted); we asked if they might have room for two more, and they offered to give us a ride if I sat on Tank's lap! I guess the back must have been full, so the one lad jumped in the driver's seat, the other one sat in the inner seat of the 2-person passenger seat, then Tank hopped in and I squished myself onto his lap with my head pressed at a rather uncomfortable angle up against the headliner of the van. I stopped
my Garmin recording at 7.5km.
In this luxury, we rode the mile-ish up the singletrack to the Lower Falls car park, learning that the two gents who we were traveling with were installers of car hoists from Sheffield who were sent to work all over the UK - this was one of the rare occasions on which they had a bit of time between jobs to see some sights. They were really nice lads, and when they dropped us off I tried to slip them a tenner to buy them a pint for their trouble, but they wouldn't hear of it. We wished them well and thanked them profusely, then they drove off and we wandered over to the car park to rejoin Mindy.
 |
| Tank spotted this at the edge of the car park when we returned - probably would have been handy knowledge before setting off! |
Into the van, and now with no further ideas about running that day - it was already 6pm, so we headed back to the caravan park, I made us some dinner, and we both finally got a shower in. We'd simply been too knackered after the Ben Nevis climb the day before, and we'd spent both Tuesday (on Ben Nevis) and Wednesday (in Steall Gorge) alternately sweating in the sun and freezing in the wind, so we were both well due!
 |
We got the only really spectacular sunset of the trip that night
(You can see our soggy shoes set out beside the van to dry) |
I promised Tank that he could have Thursday as a total rest day, as his left leg was still incredibly painful when he awoke.
 |
Once I could finally coax him out of the (actually quite comfortable) bed, that is.
He's still in there somewhere, under the giant down duvet in its big fuzzy cover. |
Our view of Meall an t-Suidhe towering above the caravan part was rather Scottish as we rose.
 |
| It was looking like a good day to do not much of anything |
However, as we both woke up ravenous, it was time to fold the bed away and get some breakfast (and coffee) going!
 |
| With the bed folded up, you get a little under 40sqft of floor space with standing room (once the roof is popped up). To the left is the passenger bench seat, which rotates to face backward and is seen providing storage space for various necessities, while our big suitcase is crammed between the dash and the seat's back inside the front passenger door. The 2-burner gas stove's lid is up beside the two coffee mugs, but the sink lid is down providing counter space (under the eggs, water bottles, and red cup). The oven is obvious - the black door is the surprisingly capacious fridge, and all other visible doors are storage space with ingenious push-to-release knobs that sit flush when the doors are secured. |
The sun actually came out while I made brunch.
 |
| Multi-tasking on the hob - the haggis slices turned out to have ingredients to which I'm allergic, so I cooked them up for Tank in a separate pan. The two pans actually hinge together into a sandwich toaster pan that can also be used to make omelettes, but I was just happy to be able to simultaneously cook two breakfasts so I wouldn't be contaminated and we could both eat together! |
We had full-on sunshine by the time I had brunch ready, so Tank set up the table and chairs and we ate on our "patio"
 |
| We were going to be the first people in history to come home from a holiday in Scotland with a tan |
I did a bit of research on walks (trails) in the area using the maps we'd purchased and some trail apps, then once Tank had done the breakfast dishes we went for a gentle wander through the caravan park to the far end near the youth hostel. When we'd been on our way down off the Ben on Tuesday we'd passed the paddock where the Glen Nevis Highland cows (Heilan coos!) are pastured, but they'd been at the far end of the field so we hadn't got a good look. I aimed to remedy that, so off we went...with Tank's leg complaining very loudly.
 |
| WORTH IT |
A few fun facts about Highland cows: their shaggy fur keeps them warm through Scottish winters, so they don't require a heated barn space - they're usually kept in open stone shelters known as "folds", which is also the term used to refer to a herd of Highland cattle. Both males and females have horns, which they use to dig through the snow to forage in winter! They're also incredibly good-tempered, and no-one seems to have the slightest clue how they see through that fringe hanging over their eyes.
 |
| Females tend to have more slender, up-turned horns than males |
I was delighted to spend some time with these delightful creatures!
 |
| COWFIE! |
The surrounding scenery was absolutely gorgeous, too.
 |
| There's so much more to Glen Nevis than just the Ben |
Once I'd had my fill of the adorableness - and utterly failed to get a photo of the cows with their goofy tongues out - we
wandered back to the van and I got changed to head out for a run. I'd pored over maps and come up with a route I thought wouldn't be too difficult (i.e.: I'd actually be able to
run the majority of it, which would not have been the case on the Steall Gorge walk or the Ben Nevis Mountain Track), and would take me less than two hours (since I only had 2 small water bottles, for a bit less than a litre of total capacity).
I headed back towards the coos, hooking left to take the youth hostel bridge across the river.
 |
| The sun had disappeared again |
The grassy valley between the mountain and river provides endless grazing for paddocks of sheep, whose bleating is a constant background noise in the caravan park.
 |
They'd run away from the fence at my approach, though.
It was seriously cute to watch, but a little disappointing that they didn't want to be friends. |
The River Path toward the Visitor Centre was just what I'd hoped for: groomed and flat, easily runnable.
 |
| The river and mountain views made it anything but boring |
Not to say I was pushing myself to run straight through: my legs were still tired, and there were things to inspect, so I walked and stopped as I pleased along the way.
 |
| It took me a moment to figure this out - you know you're in a place that sees a lot of rain when the picnic table benches fold up to keep them dry! |
I crossed the river again at the Visitor Centre bridge.
 |
| Low cloud over River Nevis |
Past the Visitor Centre car park, the path wound through a copse of trees.
 |
| Still flat and groomed |
I saw a cairn at an intersection of trails, and stopped to check out the carved stone plaque that adorned it.
 |
I mean, if I run through cemeteries at home, I don't necessarily feel running through a contemplation area for those lost on Ben Nevis is any less respectful.
Also: I adore this John Muir quote |
From here I ran out of the Visitor Centre car park driveway and down the road a bit until I found the right-hand turn I was looking for:
 |
| I'd only see a tiny piece of it - the West Highland Way runs 96mi/154km from Milngavie (Glasgow) to Fort William |
Past another field of sheep, plus a stand of the lovely and ubiquitous foxgloves..
 |
| We'd seen foxgloves and bell heather were everywhere in the West Highlands |
A light, misting rain began to fall - I suppose the weather wanted me to have the full West Highland Way experience. I entered pine forest as the map had said, but the path seemed to be headed straight up a mountainside..
 |
| This was not what I'd expected |
A bit more poking around seemed to establish that I'd taken a wrong turning onto some downhill mountain bike trail in the process of being built, but I was soon able to find my way onto the West Highland Way proper.
 |
| That's more like it |
I headed north toward the Braveheart parking lot - so named because it was built to store production vehicles while the film of the same name was being shot in the Glen. The trail was a bit flinty, but wide and very well maintained.
Reaching the Braveheart car park, I found a sign with some info and a map.
.jpg) |
| And a coo! |
My original plan had been to run to the
Wishing Stone and then just down the road back to the caravan park, but the map showed that there was a side trail off the West Highland Way that led to the youth hostel. That sounded like a much better bet: I didn't come to Scotland to run roads, and I'd get to see a tiny bit more of the West Highland Way!
 |
| My outbound trip in mauve - my intended return path in bright green |
First, though, I wanted to find the
Wishing Stone. It was supposed to be just over a bridge from the Braveheart car park..
 |
| ..but not this one. |
 |
| ..but not that one, because I'd seen a photo. |
 |
| This looks promising! |
I finally found it, right by the road at a dead-end trail.
 |
| I made a wish, but didn't know I was supposed to hop 'round it 3 times first |
 |
| Dork for scale |
Goal achieved and about 6km in, I turned and wound my way back to the West Highland Way.
 |
| Definitely a bit more pointy than my usual trail run scenery |
Fortunately the path was mostly downhill from here, so I could just sort of trot along.
 |
There was still some walking, though.
I was on vacation! |
The trails were very well signed - I mean hundreds of people through-hike the West Highland Way each year - so I had no trouble locating the turn off to the side trail.
 |
| I wished I had more time (or better legs) to explore further! |
One last bit of beauty on the trail caught my eye:
 |
| The red sphagnum moss was really striking |
Then it was down a steeper hill that made my legs protest quite a bit..
 |
| They'd had enough of "down" on Tuesday |
Out of the forest and onto a road - one that I recognized.
 |
| I'd seen it earlier in the day |
This meant I'd go right past the coos again!
 |
| Just as some blue sky finally appeared! |
It was about 4pm by the time I made it back to the van, after
9km of exploring and a bit of true Scottish weather.
 |
| The West Highland Way was definitely a box I was pleased to have checked! |
The clouds closed back in again as I did some puttering around the van - mending a couple of holes in the netting of the roof surround
 |
| Not perfect, but better than it was |
..and patching a tear that we'd put in the windscreen cover while trying to slip it over the passenger door.
 |
| I carry weather- and UV-resistant commercial awning thread with me when camping to make durable repairs - I hoped a piece of duct tape on the inside would keep the stitching from catching on the door's corner, which had made the tear in the first place |
We also rigged up a clothesline inside the van to dry my damp running kit.
 |
| When space is at a premium, you hang as much as you can |
By the time I'd accomplished all that, I was tired and a bit chilled - the cloud cover had closed in again, and the wind had picked up, blowing the damp from the earlier rain. I knew there was a proper restaurant - apart from the little canteen by the park store, operating out of a converted shipping container and offering a small menu for breakfast and dinner - near the youth hostel as we'd seen it walking through the park from the Ben, so I decided to check out their menu to see if there was anything I'd be able to eat. Fortunately things looked promising, and while Tank initially hesitated to spend the money on a dinner out, I argued that we'd just got £60 refunded to us by Rockhopper and I was just feeling too worn out to stand and make us a meal. The last time we'd eaten something I hadn't had to prepare was Sunday morning, and with it now being Thursday night I thought I was maybe due a break from cooking. Tank agreed, so we walked off to the restaurant, bundled up in our puffy jackets against the chill and some more mist falling.
 |
| The coos didn't seem to mind as we passed them once more |
We had a fantastic meal - parsnip & thyme soup and an excellent Thai green curry for me, with beer battered haddock & chips plus a pint of blonde ale for Tank - and it was lovely to be properly indoors for an hour or so on a chilly evening. The misting rain held off as we walked back to the van, but would continue on and off throughout the night.
 |
| I mean it is Scotland, after all |
I got an entry into the log book, then we tried to get an early night under the imposing bulk of Meall an t-Suidhe above us.
 |
| Our last night of sheepy lullabies |
We had a wonderful stay at Glen Nevis - it's certainly not the cheapest option, but the facilities are well kept and it's central to so many different things for people of all persuasions to explore. It was fantastic to be able to just leave the van pitched up while we climbed the Ben, and if I were planning to stay in the Glen Nevis area again I wouldn't hesitate to shell out for a spot there. We'd see how it compared to other campgrounds later on, but the bar was definitely set high!
.jpg)
No comments:
Post a Comment
Go on, have at me!