Rock and roll

Well, more like rock and squirm.

Definitely rock, though.

For the start of our planned motorcycle tour in mid-August of this year, we decided to camp for a couple of nights at Craigleith Provincial Park so we could take a day off the road to go rock climbing and caving at Metcalfe Rock. We had booked a package with Free Spirit Tours that looked like a fantastic deal - rock climbing in the morning (usually $75 per person) then caving in the afternoon (usually $70 per person) for $120 per person (saving $25pp). We left home Sunday evening, had a lovely evening at the park (and I got a run in on the beautiful Georgian Trail), then rode our motorcycles out to the parking lot on 10th Line to access Metcalfe Rock.

Pleased to see a portajohn hiding behind the sign!

A gorgeous morning, if a bit cool riding over.

Freely accessible for all, thanks to conservation and access activists.

Getting ready to start our day.

One note for anyone who decides to head up here on anything other than 4 wheels - coming from the north (Hwy 26), we made the the turn onto 10th Line from 9th Side Road and discovered it was washboard gravel with a sketchy downhill curve! While we were able to make it safely, I don't think I'd choose to travel there on a motorcycle intended for paved roads again.

Having arrived before everyone else, we had a look around at the trail leading from the parking lot to the fun stuff - the crag, the caves, and the Bruce Trail. 

Some placards near the parking lot offer information about the ecology and geological history of the area.

Smooth, easy footpath leading toward more adventurous things.

After meeting our guide Jonathan, our belayer David, and the others in our group (a young couple, and a mother with her son), we were given climbing helmets to put on. The other folks were also given climbing harnesses, but we had brought our own (having confirmed via email that we would be permitted to use them) as they are familiar and known to fit us well. We were all given a moment near the trailhead to introduce ourselves, being asked to give our name, where we are from, our spirit animal (TRASH PANDA FTW!) and our climbing experience, which I had to admit was a bit rusty - we hadn't even been to the gym in over a year, and it had been about 2 decades since I last climbed outdoors. 

We stopped at a beautiful little spill of water that guide Jonathan explained percolates down through the limestone after a rain, filtering it into a delicious, cold, drinkable spring. I felt a bit silly for sporting along a container with 6L of water as well as our nalgenes, but I hadn't known we'd have access to drinkable water and wanted to ensure we stayed hydrated all day.

Guide Jonathan Jetson on the left by the spring, explaining some points of interest to our fellow climbers 

Past the spring we found ourselves on the main Bruce Trail, and got our first look at Metcalfe Rock proper. 

Impressive in the morning sun

The introductory climb

Looking northwest toward some of the other routes we'd see that day

We needn't have worried about our climbing skills and knowledge being a bit neglected - after accommodating everyone with climbing shoes (well, except Tanker and I - we'd brought our own, as we have ones that fit well and are fairly comfortable), Jonathan and David went over the essential skills and procedures for top roping in a way that someone who'd never even heard of rock climbing before could easily grasp. The acronym ABC was used to ensure safety: 

Attached: First and foremost, make sure you are on the correct rope, that the belay carabiner is locked, and that you have tied in correctly with a follow-through figure 8 knot through the proper attachment points on your harness.

Buckled: Ensure that all straps on both your harness and your belayer's harness are cinched down and doubled-back through the buckles so they cannot release.

Communication: Talk to your belayer to ensure that they are ready for you to climb. Simple, easily-heard questions and responses like "Am I on belay?" - "You are on belay"; "Ready to climb?" - "Climb on" before you leave the ground.

Belayer David Magee demonstrating tying in to the rope

After explaining all of the procedures, they asked for a volunteer to be the first to climb and demonstrate. Since no-one else seemed interested (and I'm always up for making a fool of myself), I stepped up to the rope, tied in, and took a whack at the first climb - named "Crack of Dawn" and rated at 5.5, or fairly basic route (learn more about climbing ratings here), I managed to make it up to the anchor without too much difficulty. I did notice, though, that I had much less grip between my skin or climbing shoes and the rock than I had been accustomed to in the gym - plastic climbing gym holds are generally based on the friction offered by granite, but this was Niagara Escarpment grey limestone. A rather soft rock, it wears quickly when exposed to oils from skin and repeated contact, meaning the holds were smooth and almost greasy-feeling.

Still made it up!

Once I'd rappelled back down, David offered to belay Tank and I on some of the other climbs that guide Jonathan had roped for us before we arrived, while the others in our group took on Crack of Dawn with Jonathan belaying them. 

Next on deck for us was a route called "Peanut Butter" - very similar holds and feel to Crack of Dawn and also rated at 5.5, but significantly longer. Tanker actually did this as his first climb of the day.

Belayer David with Tank on his way up

Looking back toward Crack of Dawn and the rest of the group

Tanker motored right up it!

Piece of cake!

Once Tank was safely on the ground again, I took a whack at Peanut Butter myself.

Searching for friction

There's a cool little shelf up by the anchor where you can have a bit of a rest before you rap down

The sun was finally breaking through the trees into the forest by Crack of Dawn - perhaps a contributing factor to its name

The next route on offer was simply named "Pockets", and at 5.7 it was the most difficult-rated climb we'd attempt. It was named for the crater-like formations in the rock near the top of the route, many of which look like amazing holds but simply aren't - they're mostly either too shallow or open to grip an edge, and of course the buttery limestone still doesn't offer much friction for either hands or feet.

Approaching the crux, with all the pockets over my head

It took me almost 20mins and countless falls off the rock (safely caught by my harness), with a steady stream of amazing encouragement coming from belayer David, but eventually I managed to send it! My forearms were burning with the effort of holding on - what's known as "pump" - and I was totally flooded with adrenaline!

Almost to the anchor as the sun starts to peek over the crag

Tanker was up next on Pockets, and he rocked it! Between our different body morphologies (he's taller with a reach advantage of several inches), strengths (he has a much stronger upper body, whereas for me #EveryDayIsLegDay), and climbing styles (I rely more on footwork and weird moves like backsteps, turning my hip in, and body tension whereas he's able to rely more on brute strength), we often find we have very different experiences on the same route - this one really allowed him to shine!

He zoomed up with only a couple of takes!

Unfortunately he had an incident that did a bit of damage to a couple of his fingertips along the way, so he was done climbing for the day. I was left to tackle the last of the 4 routes that had been roped for us myself, after trying my best to shake the pump out of my arms. It was also the longest route, being the furthest west on the section of crag we were climbing - only accessible via a very rocky bit of scrambling that was not at all easy in climbing shoes!

I was told there was a lot of chimney climbing on this route, though, and my leg strength means that's achievable for me. So, I tried my hand (and feet, and back, and legs) on "Mother of Jam", rated at 5.6.

Taking a rest on top of a rock literally jammed in the fissure

The higher I got, the tighter things got - up near the top there's a chimney so small you can't even turn your helmeted head.

Tight squeeze 

Maneuvering into the chimney required some interesting contortions as I tried to push myself up.

Seeing this photo after I had to ask how the heck my arm and leg survived exerting any force in this position 

With some strange shimmies, pushing my back against the rock and moving hands and feet up inches at a time, I reached the anchor and then wedged myself for a rest before descending.

Elated but bloody tired!

It was the most interesting rappel of the day, too, as I tried to keep myself out of the ever-widening crack.

LOOK AT MAH BUTT

Happy girl!

Back on the ground once more, I peered up the route and could scarcely believe I'd just been all the way up there.

Looks like you could touch the sky, though this is really quite a modest climb

Then it was back over the rocky scramble to get back to our regular shoes - climbing shoes need to fit very snug in order to give you good control, and our dogs were barkin' after a couple of hours of constriction on challenging terrain.

I wasn't joking about the rockiness.

We'd all met up in the parking lot just after 9am, and by 11:30am the last of our group had done all the climbing they wanted, so it was time to head out. We'd had a blast, really enjoying the beautiful scenery and challenge of climbing outdoors.

So very delighted. 

At the parking lot, everyone apart from ourselves took off - I guess Tank and I were the only ones who got the package deal, and after a bite to eat with guide Jonathan even belayer David got in his car and drove away. After supplying us with caving harnesses (which differ slightly from climbing harnesses), Jonathan told us he'd meet us at the spring at 1:30pm, then headed out on the trail toward the crag: he was left with the job of pulling down all the ropes and anchors from the morning's 4 climbing routes as we had a bite to eat and tried to find a bit of shade to sit in, still feeling the exertions of our battle with gravity.

Much shade in the woods

Not long after 1pm we headed back to the spring just to get out of the sun, and met Jonathan on his way back to the Free Spirit Tours van loaded down with ropes and gear.

We just had our backpack with snacks and nalgenes.

We left the 6L behind since we were both loving the spring water

Once accommodated with helmets and headlamps, we began our hike to the caves in Metcalfe Crevice, down a side trail off the Bruce.

Blue blazes indicate side trails, while the main trail is blazed in white

Appropriate footwear definitely required! 

The terrain became rockier as we progressed, and the scenery more stunning.

Blue blaze dead ahead

Into the crevice

The deep cleft in the escarpment rock gives this small area its own microclimate, significantly cooler and damper than its surroundings as the sun only penetrates its walls for an hour or two per day even in high summer. This promotes the growth of mosses and ferns, giving it a very prehistoric feel.

This view likely hasn't changed in thousands - if not millions - of years.

Progressing into the heart of the crevice, Jonathan began to point out some of the cave structures around us.

Narrow opening

You can actually see the mist drifting out of this cave

Unfortunately blurry photo, but certainly makes you feel very small

As we looked around, Jonathan indicated some more points of interest, like the ancient (but still tiny due to lack of available nutrients) trees growing out of the rock, and the striations that showed us evidence of some vigorous geography in millennia long past.

All of which can be seen in this photo.

Then it was time to get on to the business at hand. We dropped our backpacks off in a handy spot among the rocks, then Jonathan led us to the entrance of the welcome cave - this would be un-guided, just to see how we would react to being under the rock, and he offered to hold on to our camera (I had actually left my phone back in the saddlebag of my bike, if you can believe it!) To take photos of us as we emerged. So, I don't have any pictures from our bit of crouch-and-scramble through the first cave, which was largely just a straightforward passage under a wall of stone.

Jonathan leading us down to the cave entrance.

Glad he offered to take the camera, as I love this photo!

You climb down off the ledge by that rock to reach the exit, and Jonathan got photos of both of us emerging as well.

Tank was easy to spot in his orange helmet and shirt

Looking happy and confident climbing out

I, on the other hand, was just as clumsy and awkward as usual.

One thing that was proving quite challenging was that our footwear - we were both wearing Brooks Caldera trail runners - had a great deal of difficulty getting traction on the damp, mossy rock underfoot. So, we had to be extra careful not to slip and fall, as there were angular rocks everywhere that would easily fracture and split bone if you were to take a tumble.

The next issue we encountered was that Tank didn't have a sweater with him - I'd brought one against the morning chill for the ride to the crag (it's much colder in the wind on a motorcycle!), and the next cave we'd visit was the Ice Cave.

After a quick photo at Jonathan's suggestion of us under a massive rock wedged above what's known as the Anvil Cave

It really is an impressive feature.

Tank would just have to suck it up and trust in his merino wool t-shirt to keep him warm, but Jonathan was kind enough to supply us with rubber-coated gloves to provide us with some warmth and grip on the wet, slimy limestone.

Kitted up and ready to go!

The Ice Cave lived up to its name within the first few feet, despite it being August the 12th - Jonathan told us that the spring melt freezes the entrance to the cave so badly that it's inaccessible until about late June each year, though it is open in winter.

A spill of ice while you can still see daylight behind from the entrance - I was very happy I had a sweater and gloves!

Where the welcome cave was quite wide open and you hardly needed a headlamp as you were only truly underground for a few feet, the Ice Cave was a proper crack-and-crevice system of chambers between narrow passages. Lights on and down to squirming along on belly or back, we headed further beneath the towers of rock, hands and feet slipping on chilly slime and condensation.

And I'd thought the chimney climb was a tight squeeze!

My foot trying to keep a grip on the slippery rock, surrounded by ice and cave dirt.

An impressive swath of ice

Jonathan had us turn off our headlamps for a photo in this large chamber - note all the ice behind us

Then it was another descent, which Jonathan described as "hug that rock and then lower yourself down, putting your feet on these little ledges a few feet below" . I looked and honestly had no confidence in my ability to make the necessary maneuvers - basically like a bouldering move, only down-climbing - without slipping. I was getting tired and the caving was proving very challenging; I checked in with Jonathan to confirm that we'd have to climb back up to come out the same way, and let him know that I was concerned about having the energy to do so if I continued down. I told him and Tanker I'd wait there while they went through the rest of the cave, and found myself a spot to sit and rest.

Tanker and Jonathan down below the "huggy rock" at the bottom right of the shot

I sat and listened to Jonathan give tank excellent cues to maneuver through the narrow passages below, hearing their voices getting further and further away. After a few minutes, I decided I didn't want to miss out on the rest of the experience, and - remembering the cues I'd heard - headed further into the heart of the earth.

Even through this passage, which meant worming your way along either head- or feet-first

Tanker would tell me later that he'd told Jonathan I'd be along after I paused to collect myself, and wasn't surprised at all when my feet suddenly dropped into view. Jonathan was a bit shocked that I'd managed to make my way un-guided, but I just said I'd heard the guidance he'd given Tank and followed that. I was super happy I'd done so, too, as I got to see the beautiful little underground spring that constantly swirls through a crevice in the corner of a lower chamber.

The same cold, drinkable, limestone-filtered water as the spring along the trail

Jonathan and Tank seem pleased to see me

I'm gonna level with you - I'm not sure which way up this photo is really supposed to be.

Having reached the final chamber, we turned back to start ascending back to ground level. Jonathan gave us an option at this point - we could go back out the way we came in, or we could try the alternate, more challenging exit known as "the Birth Canal" .

Well, who wants to re-trace their steps ig they can avoid it?

Just enough room to squeeze your shoulders through

Getting closer to daylight

Tanker and Jonathan following me to an upper chamber

Tank had a bit of a moment when a strap from his harness got hooked on a protruding rock, effectively getting him stuck for a minute very near the exit.

So close..

Fortunately he was able to work through it and we were all soon back above ground.

Time to rehydrate and have a quick snack!

We then moved to a different part of the crevice to access the final cave of adventure - the Bat Cave, easily found by landmarking off this incredible twisted braid of tree roots.

Nature is amazing 

Enough above-ground - after a quick scramble off to the forest to ensure it was *ahem* fully watered (as we'd been told it would be another 45mins to an hour for the final cave), it was time to get under some rock!

An innocent enough looking start

Jonathan leading the way

When deliberating about whether or not it would be a good idea to descend into the final cave at our current energy levels, Jonathan had said it wasn't quite as difficult a path as the Ice Cave - you wouldn't be fully enclosed for "more than a body length" , which was not the most encouraging description. We decided to give it a whack anyway, and soon found that there were still some quite tight passages to squeak through.

Like this

And this, which required you to worm your way through on your side as it wasn't wide enough for even my shoulders on my back or belly

The chambers in the Bat Cave seemed to be rather smaller, too, but were bereft of ice.

And also bats, which was a pity.

The final chamber also required another squirm through a very low opening that had us down on our backs again.

This.

The easiest way was to go head first on your back, so you could grab the well-worn overhang to pull yourself out.

You can see the effects of years and thousands of hands on the limestone

The cave was another crack-and-crevice maze with multiple chambers to explore.

Jonathan heads out of one chamber and into another through a narrow passageway, but one through which you can walk

Tank emerges from a passage

The end of this cave had a surprise for us - we emerged into the light directly under the suspended rock we'd been photographed under earlier. The Bat Cave ended at the Anvil Cave!

With quite a different view this time

Now 4:30pm, we were both thoroughly exhausted, not to mention filthy and bruised all over from maneuvering through the tight spaces over unforgiving rocks. Drinking deep of the spring water from our nalgenes, we had another quick snack and then began the very technical hike out of the crevice, completing the looped side trail and meeting up with the main Bruce Trail once more.

Tank on his way out of Metcalfe Crevice

The end of the side trail (with a person in yellow) and the main trail past the climbing crag down to the left

In spite of sore bodies and muscles, we'd had an absolutely amazing day! I'm not sure I'd recommend doing both climbing and caving in one day unless you're accustomed to hard, physical work for hours on end: Tanker works a labour job with heavy lifting 8hrs per day and I'm an ultra dork, so we're fairly fit and can hike for hours (or I can run slowly and clumsily for the best part of a day), but even we found it very taxing. I would, however, highly recommend Free Spirit Tours! We couldn't have asked for a better experience than Jonathan and David provided us - their knowledge, patience, diligence and encouragement led to us having a safe and truly enjoyable day.

Jonathan even offered to get this one last photo as we said goodbye to Metcalfe Rock, and it's one of my favourites of the two of us!