Pulling it off - Part 1

So our plan for our motorcycle tour this year was a bit ambitious.

Day 1 - ride to Killarney Provincial Park. No big deal - 465.6km.

Fuel stop

All set up

We had gorgeous weather, but the idiots who used our site before us hadn't a clue about keeping a tidy campsite. There was garbage everywhere, and the ground was strewn with pumpkin seeds. We had to be extra vigilant to keep our food away from the constant influx of chipmunks, red squirrels and the boldest raccoons we'd ever seen!

Day 2 - ride to Science North & back to Killarney. 192.5km "rest day"

NO PANTS BEFORE COFFEE

Raccoon print on the mesh tent right by my pillow.
I knew I heard sniffing in the night..

Up and out to Sudbury, we had a blast at Science North! From the butterflies, reptiles & amphibians to the fossils, a flying squirrel landing on me and a ride on the gyro, we enjoyed every single moment.

Grey rat snake cuddles

Flying squirrel selfie!

Gyro fun!

Lunch on the patio overlooking Ramsey Lake

Back toward Killarney with the Hwy 69 wildlife bridge ahead

Sunset over George Lake

Day 3 - ride to Brimley State Park. 438.7km

We arose, packed & saddled up, and rode the hell out of Canada. I took a chill stopping for gas in Espanola on Hwy 17, then had to stop in Blind River to put on a jacket or I'd have frozen to death. Gorgeous sunshine, but no warmth to the air at all and a damn cold wind coming off Lake Huron. We crossed the border at Sault Ste. Marie, grabbed some groceries, then got set up on our campsite at Brimley State Park.

Tent up and bikes unloaded.

Located at the Southern end of Whitefish Bay on the South shore of Lake Superior, we were frozen to the bone by the wind from the North coming directly in off the lake. A short walk down a little path from our campsite did afford a stunning view, though, to take the sting out of the 5c/40f temperatures.

Sunset over Gitche Gumee

Looking back East toward Canada

Day 4 - Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, H58 & ride to Fayette Historic State Park. 435.5km

The wind died overnight, but it was still a cold start for what would be our toughest day of the tour. As we pulled out in glorious sun after some early morning showers, I remarked to Tanker that it was "just another day in paradise". We made the turn onto Hwy 123 to head North to Whitefish Point and a sign told us we'd have to stop 22 miles from there to get this photo.

It was just too much of a coincidence.

Up the incredible sweeping curves of 123 to the Shipwreck Museum, we became completely absorbed in the history of the Shipwreck Coast (Lake Superior's Southern shore between Munising & Whitefish Point), the sailors lost in its waters, the lighthouse keeper's life, and the courage of the men who walked the gale and risked their lives to save people from the treachery of the largest and most cruel of the Great Lakes at the USCG rescue station.

Solemn and respectful treatment of artifacts recovered from the many ships claimed by Superior

A poignant reminder that the modern era is far from immune to a Great Lake's wrath

The signal is still operated by the USCG and the keeper's residence has been completely restored

Looking North from Whitefish Point to the great expanse of Superior

After more than 2 hours spent immersed in maritime history, we saddled up again around 2:30pm to ride one of the most incredible motorcycle roads in the Great Lakes region. First it was out through Paradise to follow 123 South and West to reach H28, then up Hwy 77 to Grand Marais where we stopped to hook up a still camera on Tanker's bike and a video camera on my handlebar mount. We'd rode H58 before, and its challenging curves were something we wanted to record!

Haulin' down H58.
This is before we got stuck behind a slow-moving Mercury that rather ruined the ride.

We stopped in Munising, where H58 ends, to fuel the bikes and ourselves and pick up groceries. Departing at 6pm, we knew we'd be hard pressed to get our campsite at Fayette set up before dark, but had a wonderful haul down H13 through the Hiawatha National Forest that was just like riding speeder bikes on Endor. The final 17 miles down from US-2 were very chilly and we were totally ready to be done with the motorcycles - 270 miles of curves plus a museum in one day will wear you the hell out!

Another stunning sunset over Big Bay de Noc, on the North shore of Lake Michigan

We made it to the campground by 7:15pm to discover no staff on site: self-registration only (glad we'd reserved in advance) with no firewood or ice available. Neighbours were kind enough to supply us with some ice & offered a spot 'round their campfire - the former was very helpful, but the latter we missed by not managing to have eaten dinner by the time they went to bed. At least it wasn't quite as cold as Brimley - about 8c/46f.


To be continued..

Wheeling away

We're outta here again!

Sunday we'll be rolling on throttle and heading North. Killarney Provincial Park for a couple of nights, then out through Sault Ste. Marie to Michigan's Upper Peninsula.

Science North. The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. Fayette Historic State Park. Riding H58, U.S. Route 2 and the Mackinac Bridge.

U.S. Route 2 photo from Wikipedia

Camping along the way, with everything we need strapped onto our motorcycles.

Looks like heaven.

To end the week, we'll arrive at a friend's place near Detroit to whoop it up with a great bunch of folks at the infamous Great Lakes Rally. Campfires, groups rides and revelry right through Labour Day Monday!

Can we just leave right now?

BRAAAAAAAAP

A full day at Bon Echo

After leaving Frontenac, we drove through backcountry roads to the gorgeousness known as Bon Echo Provincial Park on deep and lovely Mazinaw Lake.

Bon Echo rock

Seemingly endless quartzite cliffs

We set up camp, started a fire, and enjoyed gawddamn filet mignon cooked over an open fire with spinach mushroom risotto. When coming out of the backcountry, a hearty meal feels like a fine reward.

New home

Cozy

That may or may not be an adult beverage in a tiny plastic mug.

The next morning, it was up and at 'em for a full day of exploring. Of course, it started without pants.

Because you've gotta have rules.

Coffee and breakfast were had, while the local wildlife came and checked out these weirdos who were invading their turf.

Tanker chatting with a chipmunk

"Excuse me, can I see your camping permit?"

"What do you mean 'your table'?"

With full bellies and a car filled with gear for the day ahead, we set out on the Mugwump ferry to cross Mazinaw Lake, bringing us to the base of the Cliff Top Trail.

Trail rehabilitation area: visitors are asked to bring gravel across and dump it to mitigate the soil erosion.

Natural steps formed by roots, to accompany all of the man-made stairs.

 The early afternoon brought the hottest weather we'd seen so far on the trip. Most days had been in the 17-22c (63-72f) range, but we sweated in the 32c/90f sunshine as we climbed atop the 100 metre/325 foot tall cliff.

Looking back at the lagoon from whence we came

Rocks and roots and blissful shade

Northern Mazinaw Lake

Back down at the ferry dock.

After our descent and return journey across the lake, we enjoyed a simple lunch on the shore before heading out to explore some more trails.

Big rock on the High Pines Trail

This tree is disintegrating into a jigsaw puzzle

Highest point of the trail

Local resident

We then made a grievous tactical error. Despite knowing that the mosquitos were vicious in the park (it was August 1st, after all), we decided to hike the Bon Echo Creek Trail. It might as well have been called the Blood Donor Trail, as we were assaulted with extreme prejudice by tiny winged vampires from the moment we set out.

Bon Echo Creek is nice, though.

Emerging at the creek's mouth back at Mazinaw Lake, we elected to take the park road back to the car instead of traversing the bloodsucker gauntlet in reverse.

Bon Echo Creek with a soon-to-be-anemic canoeist

The lovely footbridge at the creek's mouth.

The highlight of the day was still to come, though. We'd confirmed with the gent who runs the boat rental earlier in the day that paddling opportunities continued right up until darkness falls in the park. We grabbed our PFDs, paddling gloves and a snack from the car, then hired a pair of kayaks to explore the park's most incredible features.

Gobsmacked by the sheer scale of the cliffs

Centuries-old pictographs on the rock face

The Walt Whitman memorial, carved into the stone in 1920.

My little playboat

Tanker under an overhang

Rocky shore

Seams of pink granite - evidence of some vigorous geography

The Nanabush panel of pictographs - the unofficial mascot of Bon Echo

As we paddled along the 1.5km / 0.9 mile of breathtaking vertical geology, the sun began to set, demonstrating how the colours of the rock seem to change with the shifting of the light.

Golden hour paddling

Heading back toward the narrows

A last look at the cliffs

Tanker chasing the sun trail

Setting sun in the lagoon

After our delightful evening's paddle it was back to the campsite for another hearty, delicious dinner and a campfire lasting deep into the night.

Using up our firewood

We headed home the next morning as the hordes descended on the park for Civic Holiday weekend, but this will certainly not be our last visit to Bon Echo.